Cabinet Installation Guide

Tools You'll Need

Level (4ft)

Drill / Driver

Stud Finder

Clamps

Shims

Pencil

Tape Measure

Safety Glasses

Preparation

Do this before you pick up a single cabinet. Skipping the prep work is the number one reason installations go sideways.

Check walls for plumb

Hold your level against each wall vertically. Note any spots that bow in or out. Cabinets need to be installed plumb regardless of what the wall does — that is what shims are for.
Check the floor for level

Lay your level on the floor along the full run of base cabinets. Find the highest point on the floor — that is your starting reference height. Every base cabinet gets shimmed up to that point, never down.
Mark stud locations

Use a stud finder to locate every stud in the installation area. Mark the center of each stud at both upper and base cabinet heights with a clear pencil line. Cabinets that miss studs will eventually pull out of the wall.
Establish a level reference line

Draw a perfectly level horizontal line around the room at the bottom of where your upper cabinets will sit (typically 54 inches from the floor, but measure from your highest floor point). This line is your guide for the entire upper cabinet installation — every cabinet goes up to this line.

Installation Order

1

Upper Cabinets First

Always install upper cabinets before base cabinets. The reason is simple: without base cabinets in the way, you have full access to the wall and can stand directly in front of your work. Once the base cabinets are in, you are reaching over them to hang uppers — much harder, and more likely to result in errors.

Mark your height line. Using your level reference line from prep, draw the bottom edge of upper cabinet placement across the entire wall. Double check it is level end to end.
Use a ledger board or cabinet jack. Temporarily screw a straight 1x4 board to the wall along your reference line. Rest each cabinet on this board while you drive the screws. This holds the cabinet in position without needing a second person to hold it.
Secure to studs. Drive 2.5-inch cabinet screws through the mounting rail at the top and bottom of the cabinet back, directly into wall studs. Use at least two screws per stud location. Do not rely on drywall anchors for wall cabinets — they are not strong enough.
Connect adjacent cabinets. Clamp face frames together, drill pilot holes, and fasten with screws through the face frame. This pulls the cabinets tight together and keeps them aligned. Never rely on wall screws alone to hold adjacent cabinets flush.

2

Base Cabinets Second

Set the first cabinet. Start in a corner if you have one, or at the most visible end of the run if not. Place the first cabinet against the wall and check it for level in both directions — front to back, and side to side.
Shim for level. Slide shims under the cabinet base to bring it to level. Shim at the corners and anywhere the cabinet rocks. Do not trim shims until the whole run is set — you may need to adjust.
Secure to wall studs. Drive 2.5-inch screws through the mounting rail at the back of the cabinet into wall studs. Same as the uppers — studs only, no drywall anchors.
Connect adjacent cabinets. Clamp face frames together, drill pilot holes, and fasten through the face frame. Work your way down the run one cabinet at a time, keeping the top of each cabinet flush with the one before it.

Finishing

The finishing pieces are what separate a cabinet installation from a built-in kitchen. Do not skip them.

Toe kicks

Cut toe kick material to fit the space between the bottom of the base cabinet and the floor. Snap it in place or nail it. This covers the shims and gives the run a clean, finished base.
Fillers

Filler strips cover the gap between the last cabinet and the wall. Cut to width and attach to the cabinet face frame. This is especially important for cabinets next to walls that are not perfectly plumb.
End panels

Any cabinet side that is visible — at the end of a run, facing into the room, next to an appliance — needs an end panel. This is a finished panel that covers the raw cabinet box side. Install with construction adhesive and pin nails.
Crown molding

Crown molding at the top of the upper cabinets ties the installation to the ceiling and gives it a custom, furniture-quality look. Measure and miter carefully — inside and outside corners take practice. If this is your first time, cut extra material and practice the corners before cutting your finish pieces.

Tips from Experience

We have installed thousands of kitchens. Here are things we wish every homeowner knew before install day.

Start in a corner

Corners are the hardest part. If you start there, every cabinet after it is a straightforward next step. If you start in the middle and work toward a corner, you end up in trouble when you get there and the math does not add up.

Do not assume walls are plumb

In most homes — especially homes older than 20 years — walls are not perfectly straight or plumb. Never push a cabinet tight against the wall and call it done. Always check with a level and shim if needed. A cabinet that is not plumb will have doors that swing open or closed on their own.

Check measurements twice

Measure your layout before you drill. Then measure again. A screw hole in the wrong spot in a cabinet side panel is not something you can undo. A few extra minutes of measuring will save hours of regret.

Have shims on hand

Buy more shims than you think you need. Floors and walls almost never cooperate perfectly, and you will use more shims than expected. They are cheap. Running out mid-install and needing a hardware store run is not.

Questions about your installation?

Ask us. Our team has seen just about every installation situation there is. We are happy to help.

Ask us.